Ha Giang is one of Vietnam’s northernmost provinces, sharing a long border with China. It’s famed for its verdant limestone and granite mountains, sleepy tribal villages and exhilarating motorbike loop. Whilst tourism in the rest of Vietnam has seen a marked increase in the last two decades, Ha Giang has been left relatively untouched, and as such is one of the last remaining glimpses of traditional ethic life in Vietnam.
Do the loop! The Ha Giang loop is one of the most daring, scenic and rewarding motorbike trips you can do in Vietnam, if not the world over. You will ascend and descend the towering karsts of Ha Giang with hundreds of hairpin turns; each twist of the road revealing another slice of untouched landscape.
The route will take you from Ha Giang to the Dong Van karst plateau Geopark. Amongst the most memorable stretches is the 20-kilometre portion between Dong Van and Meo Vac where you will climb through the Ma Pi Lang Pass, soaring above several stomach-turningly vertical drops.
This trip is certainly not for the faint-hearted, and motorcycle experience is absolutely imperative. The trip will take a minimum of three days, and the best time to travel is between either June and July or September and October, but keep an eye on the forecast as these periods can also bring heavy rains, flooding and landslides.
We also recommend making a stop at Lung Cu; Vietnam’s northernmost point. The peak of Vietnam is commemorated with a flagpole, which you can walk around, with clear views of Vietnam behind you and the great expanse of China in front. Despite its geopolitical significance, the views surrounding Lung Cu flagpole are immense; you will find yourself surrounded by dreamlike rolling limestone mountains covered in thick, lush foliage, unobstructed by buildings or indeed any sign of modern life.
Ha Giang is one of the least visited areas of Vietnam, and as such can be fairly sparse on accommodation. However, you don’t have to look too hard to find decent low and middle-price hotels, as well as a slowly increasing number of luxury hotels and resorts. However, as always, we suggest that if you really want to make the most of your stay in Ha Giang, that you consider one of the many traditional homestays in the region. Amenities may be basic, however this will be our chance to contribute directly to the local ethnic community, as well as learning how locals really eat, sleep and live. Look online for well-reviewed homestays, or find ones once you arrive from word of mouth!
Ha Giang town center is located 320 kilometers from Hanoi, and is best accessed by bus from My Dinh station, Hanoi. It is also possible to drive the roughly five-hour journey via motorbike, however the bus is very cheap, convenient and bikes are readily available for rent once you arrive.
The cuisine of Ha Giang has remained largely unchanged for generations and consists entirely of produce of that area. Many local delicacies center around providing comfort and warmth during the cold and sometimes brutal winters that the mountainous region faces. Locals drink a kind of potent corn-based wine which you will almost certainly be offered if you stay in a homestay. It’s strong and very flavorful, and goes down a treat during cold spells.
Similarly, steamed egg rolls are a regional favorite, cooked simply and eaten with sauce made from stewed pork bones for a hit of meaty saltiness. This dish is often served alongside another regional favorite, Bac Me; bamboo sticky rice. Rice has been cooked in this way for thousands of years all over this part of Asia, and is a simple, resourceful and incredibly adept way of cooking their staple crop. Sticky rice is mixed with various fillings occasionally mushrooms, occasionally meat – always whatever’s local and seasonal, is stuffed into hollow sections of bamboo and protected with moist banana leaves, before it is then steamed or grilled, giving the outer section of the rice a delicious crunchy texture. The rice also becomes infused with the fragrance of the bamboo and banana leaf; it’s really delicious and perfectly satisfying.
If shopping’s your thing, check out Trang Kim market in Tam Son, Quan Ba district. The market is held on the fifth of every month, and ends mid-afternoon – so get there early. If you’re lucky enough to make it, you’ll find yourself immersed in a traditional Vietnamese market, where locals buy and sell clothes, fabrics, home wares, as well as produce such as exotic fruits, spices and vegetables.
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