The so-called ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam is carpeted in a staggering array of nature. People live, shop, work and travel on the mighty Mekong, which started its life as a trickle of glacial water 4,350km north in the Himalayas. Here much of the high-octane modernity of the rest of the world slips away, only to be replaced by the equally buzzing and much more natural rhythm of one of the most fertile places on earth.
The Mekong Delta today is one of the world’s main exporters of rice, and despite covering only 10% of Vietnam, it produces almost all of the country’s rice. However full-on the commerce of its urban pockets, they couldn’t be more at odds with the sleepy countryside, where lumbering water buffalo trudge through rice fields and colorful produce spills off baskets and boats along the muddy Mekong. Friendly locals reward curious tourists with a smile, and, on the odd occasion, full room and board!
Easily the biggest attractions of the Mekong Delta are the cheerful floating markets which bob along the muddy river. As the region can be insufferably hot during the day, most traders chose to set out early, so try to visit between 6 and 7am to experience the spectacle in full flow, and to avoid the tourist rush.
An Giang is a little-known province of the Mekong Delta, but it is home to the sleepy hamlet of Ba Chuc. It’s definitely worth a visit for travelers with an interest in South East Asia’s recent political history. Whilst you’re there, why not stop by Thach Dong Cave Pagoda nearby in the border town of Ha Tien? Here you will find a significant Buddhist pagoda carved into limestone mountains. This monument was crafted to commemorate the 130 Vietnamese who died defending their country against the Khmer Rouge. It’s certainly powerful, unusual, and peculiarly photogenic.
The Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary, just a short drive or cycle from Bac Lieu town, is a haven for bird lovers, being the nesting site of dozens of bird species. You may find yourself sharing the rewarding hike through the sanctuary with its population of beautiful (and rare) white herons, which is certainly a treat for your eyes and your ears. The best time to visit is during the rainy season between May and October. However – be prepared; you’ll need thick shoes and plenty of mosquito spray for this dense, muddy trek, as well as more water than you think you’ll need.
You’re able to fly to Can Tho from both Hanoi and Dalat, where you’ll be able to find public transport to get around the Mekong. Alternatively, there are a wide abundance of tours heading from Ho Chi Minh City to the delta daily and throughout the year, either as day trips or as longer jaunts. Service, price and flexibility can vary massively, so it’s best to do your research beforehand to avoid being disappointed. Pham Ngu Lao area in Ho Chi Minh city is a good place to start looking.
The quintessential Mekong dining experience is the tangy, sour, sweet, spicy and pungent festival that is bun mam. Bun (thin, silky, white rice) noodles are served in a bowl of clear fish sauce broth, where it is then adorned with an array of seafood, including fried fish, prawns, Vietnamese fish cake, as well as veggies such as eggplant and onion.
If you’re feeling slightly more adventurous, why not go for another local favorite – grilled snake-head. Ca Loc Nuong is served with a chili dipping sauce, and is the perfect mix between tender flesh, crispy skin, and smoky flavors. Give it a go!
Obviously, the floating markets steal the show here. To see what the vendor is selling, check out what’s tied to the end of the long pole hanging off their boat. Located at the T-junction of Can Tho River, Phong Dien floating market is a huge point of call for traders exchanging a huge range of goods: from furniture, tools, local crafts to sensationally colorful produce of all kinds. Get there fast – the market is only open early in the morning, and shuts at 9am.
Vendors fat the unmissable log their upmarket wares to a steady stream of tourists in the riverfront Old Market – a far sight from the gruesome meat market that has since shifted its position to the delta’s central market. The Old Market is a great place to shop for postcards, souvenirs and local crafts.
You’ll be able to bring Visa and Mastercards to Vietnam, but be aware than cash points are limited in most towns and cities (including the main ones) and may only dispense up to 5m VND, which might sound like a lot, but in reality is only about 200 USD. You’ll be hard-stretched in most places other than tourist offices in big cities and fancy hotels to find someone taking cards, so make sure you always have plenty of cash.
Exercise caution when traveling around the time of the Lunar New Year (or Tết as the festival is called locally). As with any major holiday, you can expect a hike in flight and travel prices, as well as inflated and limited accommodation options. Your best bet would be to book well in advance if you plan on traveling during this time.
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